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MEGACUSP FORMATION ON RIP CHANNEL BATHYMETRY

Authors: Mark D. Orzech; Ad Reniers; Edward B. Thornton; Jamie MacMahan;

MEGACUSP FORMATION ON RIP CHANNEL BATHYMETRY

Abstract

The formation of beach megacusps in the presence of rip channel bathymetry is investigated using time-averaged video and simulated with XBeach, a recently developed coastal sediment transport model. A review of four years of video and wave data from Sand City, CA, indicates that megacusp embayments most often form shoreward of rip channels under larger waves (significant wave height (Hs) = 1.5 – 2.0 m) but also occasionally appear shoreward of shoals when waves are smaller and daily mean water level is higher. After calibration to the Sand City site, XBeach is shown to hindcast measured shoreline change moderately well (skill = 0.41) but to overpredict the erosion of the beach face. Simulations with small to moderate waves (Hs ≤ 1.2 m) suggest, similar to field data, that megacusps will form shoreward of either rip channels or shoals, depending on mean water level and pre-existing beach shape. A frequency-based analysis of sediment transport forcing indicates that the mean flow plays the dominant role in each type of megacusp formation, but that very-low-frequency (VLF) oscillations in suspended sediment and advective flow are also significant.

Subjects by Vocabulary

Microsoft Academic Graph classification: Shore geography geography.geographical_feature_category Erosion Shoal Sediment Bathymetry Mean flow Significant wave height Geomorphology Sediment transport Geology

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    influence
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citations
This is an alternative to the "Influence" indicator, which also reflects the overall/total impact of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network (diachronically).
BIP!Citations provided by BIP!
popularity
This indicator reflects the "current" impact/attention (the "hype") of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network.
BIP!Popularity provided by BIP!
influence
This indicator reflects the overall/total impact of an article in the research community at large, based on the underlying citation network (diachronically).
BIP!Influence provided by BIP!
impulse
This indicator reflects the initial momentum of an article directly after its publication, based on the underlying citation network.
BIP!Impulse provided by BIP!
0
Average
Average
Average
Related to Research communities
NEANIAS Underwater Research Community